Day One: Now Wasn't that Fun!?

Ch-Ch-CHINA stories here we gooooooooooooooooooo!!!

From the events of Saturday, December 26, 2009. I should start out by saying that Christmas lasted a bit longer than I intended it to... there was a nice family-style dinner with friends, followed by meeting with other friends at NOW bar.

Plan: Briana and I were to meet up 'round 8:40a to trek to the airport bus that left at 9a. I woke up with a start from a Briana text reading "u coming?" at 8:46a. OH NO!! I got up, phone to my ear and started flying around my apartment in a daze, throwing last minute items into my suitcase... exactly like the McCallisters in their morning rushings after their external power was cut off (my internal seemed to have failed me), "Briana!" I cried into the phone, "I just woke up. Go to the bus, I'll meet you there. We will make this bus! We will." She agreed, but their was skepticism in her voice. I don't blame her; we missed the bus, but we were able to get a cab for 80,000 won - funnily enough the first guy quoted 150,000, then this second guy said 120,000 we said, "No. 100,000" and walked away, but then he called out, "80,000!" Alright, I like this.

The flight was less than enjoyable, A1. because I wasn't feeling the greatest. B2. apparently China Southern Airlines manufactured their planes in 1978 and haven't updated since. It was a bumpy and loud ride to say the least. I went between sleeping and sweating and vomiting - I felt just like a little baby, but I didn't cry. Rough.

Oh! And in my sickly haze, I checked that I had a cough on the medical card, and when we de-planed, I was semi-detained. I had to go get my temperature checked and wear a mask, but that was sort of fun and I felt like I fit right in. I was total money cause I only had a common cold, but the guy didn't seem to appreciate his time being taken. What else were you going to do, guy? Get over it.

IN CHINA!!! Beijing to be exact! Briana and I met Tony (the dude we stayed with and Briana's friend) and his lady, Xie Yichen (pronounced "E Chen") at the airport and hopped into a cab - I sat in the front and dry-heaved with my head out the window a couple times. Ugh. WELCOME TO CHINA!! I napped for a bit because I still felt sick, and missed a lunch snack at a poetic menu restaurant ("Hoodwinks the type to roast Yang Bang" for chicken legs).

We had dinner at some pizza place (I know, but it was a group thing, and there was a whole week to indulge on the country's cuisine) by a lake that started with an H - maybe Haitang, or maybe I just made that up, I don't care enough to check. Afterward we went to a reggae bar nearby. It was so crazy getting there!! We were walking down the lane, minding our own business, and we see a line of bars ahead of us, so we continue on our way and we are approached by excited men in long coats and big hats, "You like drinks? Music? Come. Come!" we keep walking, it happens again. In front of every bar/club there was at least one guy to round up people and get 'em inside. They got so close to your face. If there wasn't someone outside, they were inside and if you saw them seeing you approaching, then they'd run out and say, "Hey! Hey! Inside. Here." and I couldn't help but laugh. Personal space doesn't seem to exist in China, though in the experience of the overall trip, they don't bump into you like the Koreans do (shoving you this way and that without apology)... strange. We ended up at 31 Bar (reggae-ish) because they didn't rush out at us and it sounded good inside. Oh yeah, live music inside every place we walked by. Wow! Our music men were great, they played flamenco and a variety of other sounds; the lead singer sounded like Colin Hayes - very enjoyable.

Oh. And also, there were horror stories told about muggings and organ stealing. Apparently Briana heard a story about an old couple going to get a taxi at the Summer Palace, or some place, and the old woman got inside first, then the taxi just sped off and the husband was left to worry and panic... days later, her organs were sold on the black market... or something. I can't say I believed this story, but believe you me I didn't doubt it and I thought about it every time we hopped into a cab. Yikes.

So, that's day one.

Day Two: Have I got the Massage for You!

Sunday, December 27, 2009

What a day! Summer Palace... in the winter. The wind was a little harsh. We wandered around for four hours, or so, checking out all the temples, pavilions, galleries and houses that were destroyed by the Anglo-French forces in 1860 and rebuilt by the Empress Dowager Cixi in 1886ish. She was a powerful lady, and even put her son, the emperor somebody or other under house arrest after the Reform Movement... I'm oh-so knowledgeable about Chinese history, wouldn't you agree? No. Yeah... We saw a lot of bronzework from the16th-11th centuries BC, though and that was pretty neat...

DRAGONS GALORE!! Did man and dinosaurs live together at one point maybe? What's the deal? Because a lot (read: all) ancient civilizations seem to have a fascination with dragons and if they couldn't interact with each other because they didn't know they were there how'd they all know about dragons? I was going to go ahead and say that dragons are real, but then, there isn't any fossil evidence... maybe that's because dragon bones turn to dust when they die. Yep. I'm going with that one.

The views were pretty spectacular, too. My camera couldn't really capture the essence of the ancient mixed with the modern, but hopefully my memory can preserve those images for some time to come.

I think my favorite thing about the Summer Palace was walking across the empty (iced) lake, even with all the dust that flew into our eyes, it was good. We even got to do a seated sled thing across it. Good times.

After all that hiking and trekking we got in a cab in search of a Beijing duck dinner, after two failed attempts in our "Wild Duck Hunt" we settled for a hot pot dinner - which was a tasty treat, indeed. Like Japanese shabu shabu, but two different soup types separated in one hot pot.

Then, since in my rush of last minute travel items I forgot my PJs, we went to Lotus (China's answer to Wal-Mart, though I think someone said they have those there...) and I picked up some long underwear in addition to fruit and gum - all for the low-low price of $15 - HOLY MOLY ME OH MY!!!

Oh, man. Here comes the strangest/sweetest part. Briana and I went to get massages - 60 yuan for 45 minutes (not shabby; a little under $10): 30 minutes of a pinching massage and 15 minutes of those hot-suction-y cups... the cupping one sounded like fun until my lady had me watch Briana get it done. (Oh yeah, this "massage parlor" was in a back room with three small beds, and our room could see into the next room over where a few older Chinese ladies were playing a dominoes game of sorts.) The glass cups are lit on fire and then suctioned to the skin, a blanket is placed over the cups and you're left for 10-15 minutes. While I was getting it done I imagined the cups were sucking all my skin up in 'em and that cups would explode and glass would fly everywhere, or just stick into me because the blanket was covering them from showering the whole room - YIKES! This didn't happen. Briana was convinced that she'd catch fire. That didn't happen. Thank goodness on both of those accounts. Though bad news, we both walked out of there looking like battered housewives; there were bruise/hickey-like marks all over our backs, and 4 on the front for the collarbones and shoulders. Mine were a lot darker than Briana's, and Yie Xichen said it meant that I had a lot of toxins in my body and that I really needed it... I think it's all from my Christmas celebrations, perhaps, but I also think that's a lie and they just left them on me too long.

Then we went back to Tony's to figure out the game plan for Day Three, and ended up playing a long and hilarious game of Chinese Monopoly ("Uncle Wang's") on a paper board. One of the "? Chance" cards I happened upon was a Strength Challenge where I had to do 5 push-ups for 200 yuan or 10 for 500. I went for the big bucks. Oh, China, you're crazy.

Day Three: No More Haggling for Me!

Monday, December 28, 2009

WE ATE SCORPIONS!! And Beijing Duck, but scorpions!! How crazy is that? Pretty crazy, I'd say. They were BBQ-y and crunchy, like potato chips... shaped like scorpions. Not necessarily the highlight, but definitely pretty high up there.

First things first. We met Tony for an Indian food lunch experience - oh so tasty! Then we had to go to the police station and register because we stayed in China for more than seven days. Tony had to come and show the policio his resident card and a note from the school stating that he was employed there, and say that he was the resident we were staying with. Apparently hostels and hotels do this, too, you just may not know about it. China's always watching.

Afterward, Briana and I cabbed (solo!) over to Olympic Park, and while we encountered a few problems with the ticketing, we made it into the stadium and it looked... well, like a stadium. We walked around it, went to the top, then started for the side where it looked like you could enter into the Winter Wonderland thing they had going on in the field - they were blowing snow, there was sledding and happiness... we wanted in. On the way, we found the IOC Chairmen Wax Museum which was a bit strange, but heated inside so we lingered. The Winter Wonderland was an extra charge so we decided against it and made our way out of the stadium.

I was taking pictures of Briana jumping in front of the entrance when a lady photographer grabbed my arm and motioned that she wanted a picture. I thought she wanted me to take a picture of her and the four men she was with, so I said "okay," but then she grabbed one of the men and stood him next to me. I called B over and we flanked the man for the photo. Then another one wanted a photo, so I had the woman take one with my camera, too. I guess Beijing gets a lot of tourists from Southern China (especially in the winter to see the snow) and smaller villages that might not get so much Western traffic.

After that we headed to Wangfuijing Street, a shopping district, via the subway! Which was oh so clean and futuristic in a spaceship-like way; an open tube that sparkled and shined and had televisions announcing stops and showed the world's ugliest animals every few stops or so. It was pretty fast, too. WFJ is where we had the scorp, too. We walked around the "authentic" Chinese market area, did some haggling, got swindled into buying candy without even realizing what was happening - so fast it happened! Good saleslady! It was only $2 split between me and B, so we figured whatever and that we'd give it to our kids.

Oh man! Then I was looking at some red bracelets and this lady selling spoke some English and was "helping" me haggle, by holding my arm - very tightly, kind of making it impossible to walk away. It was hard to look at the merch when she was all up in my face; she would say a high price and I would say "no" and start to walk away only to have her pull me back and ask me to name a price, "What do you call?" then she would repeat the price I gave and laugh in my face, I'm talking right up close in my face (Western space/personal bubble limits don't seem to exist here). Eventually I talked her down to 50 yuan, but I only had 20s so I gave her 60 and when I asked for change, she started to go for it, but then gave me a smaller bracelet for for 10. Oh geeze. Oh. And another bracelet seller pleaded with me when I told her I needed to think about the price, "No thinking! Buy now!" The marketplace was definitely a heart-racing experience in dodging the arms that would reach out to grab you and haggling for your life. The salespeople are very persistent in these markets. Oh, and the arm-holding face-laughing lady told me that a sign on their booth said, "good prices for foreigners" yeah right, like I'm going to believe that a sign written in Chinese is to welcome foreigners...

(Waving starfish. You want? Or maybe some petrified lizards?)

(AHHHH!!! These were not the scorpions we ate!!)

(We had the babies. "Why am I doing this again?")

(For my children's children.)

It was nearing 6, so B and I headed to Beijing's largest bookstore to wait for Tony and Xie Yichen and then we went and ate some duck. Oy. But on the way is when we had the scorpion appetizers. They sold starfish, sea horses, silk worms (maybe), cockroaches (I think), BIG scorpions, and grasshoppers among other things that you could fry and try. Oh, China. And that duck. Man, we ate a lot of duck... we got two. I ate half a duck and ate its brains, and had heart in a dumpling. It kind of grosses me out a little to think about it now, probably because we were so full after. Oy. And I guess the duck skin is the best part, so they say. It was the first part of the duck served and we each popped a piece in our mouth and bit down with a crunch and a splash of hot water (really grease, though) gushed into our cheeks. Ummm... yum? The duck was pretty tasty, though I wish we woulda stopped after one; we wrapped the duck meat in thin pancakes with BBQ-ish sauce and scallions, then washed it all down with some jasmine tea.

A pretty good day, if I do say. PS - this song kept running through my head throughout the trip! Eeks! 

Day Four: We Bought Tickets to see the World's Biggest Gift Store...

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Yep. We went to the world's largest aquatic gift shop today! Otherwise known as the Beijing Aquarium. The Lonely Planet boasted it as being the largest mainland aquarium with seven awesome sections including SHARKS and whales, too. Oooh! Briana and I were pretty excited to say the least. And then it turned out to be a bit of a disappointment as the Amazon section seemed to have about five species of fish, on repeat. And coy fish... really? Coy in the Amazon?

Oh, and as for those seven sections... the shark reef was under construction (I almost cried, but I guess I'll have to save the next sharks I see for the ones I swim with in Busan!!) and the whale one was, too... or maybe there were no whales to begin with. The coral reef section was almost cool, and that was only because there was an escalator that served as a tunnel under the water and a big ole turtle and a manta ray swam over me. Then there was a sturgeon hall that I don't even remember having fish in it... but maybe they were there... I was a little blinded by my rage at that point. Oh, but the gift shops. Yes, there were gift shops in tacky seaside decor every which way you looked... (no joke, hence B and I dubbing the "aquarium" the world's largest gift shop) just in case you wanted something in one room, but didn't make up your mind until you got in another room - they just wanted to give you options, I guess. They also sold fried fish at the food stands, which I didn't think was so friendly... but maybe that's what all the Coy in the "Amazon" was for. Makes sense.

After waiting around as long as we could - we waited for an hour or so to watch a seal/dolphin show which was a seal/dolphin show, again, the Lonely Planet lied to us and said it was along the lines of a Sea World performance... there was no Shamu, though a swimmer did stand on dolphins and that was pretty neat.

After being disappointed at the aquarium, we thought things couldn't be much worse in the zoo (the admission covered the cost of both) and we saw elephants, hippos, rhino bums, giraffes, adorable little golden monkeys (who were outside and had to be so cold, but maybe they're used to it?) and PANDAS!!

(A little blurry, but those are a couple of pandas for you.)

While we were looking at the pandas there was a family of women who grabbed a giggling Briana into a picture and took me alongside. Two for two in the completing strangers family photo albums (I don't count the days we were with Xie Yichen and Tony because that made us seem more like locals...)!!

After the zoo we had a subway adventure - we were pushed into the train car by people that worked in the subway!! They didn't have plush pushers on their arms like I imagined, but it was still fun and gave me a bit of a start. We were to meet Tony's co-teacher's friend, Whitney, a Beijing tour guide, who got us tickets to see a Kung Fu show at night. It didn't take us very long to get to where we needed to be and we had an hour to kill, so we walked around in search of food, but we only found a KFC. Somehow or another we ended up at this Pearl Market... I think it's cause we thought there might be food inside, no go, just more "designer" duds. There was more haggling amidst arm-grabbing and calculator prices. "Hey lady. Lady you like Coach bag? Louis Vuitton? We have designer bag special for you." We ended up getting pizza from a bakery.

The KF show was pretty spectacular and re-lit my love for theater that has seemed to dwindle in its dormant stage. The live action and sets and storytelling awakened curiosity and desire, and hopefully not only for the moment. Simple sets, but the costumes were bright and brilliant. There were many actors playing Chun Yi (the Kung Fu master the story was about) each showcasing one of C.Y.'s abilities. Some acrobatics and the choreography was almost flawless, very pleasing to the eye.

A lotus flower always blooms

Sunshine becomes a rainbow

A split second lasts for eternity

Or something along those lines was the song sung throughout the show.

My back really started to hurt today (like behind the shoulder blades hurt), and I blame it on the cupping, but maybe it was a combination of that, wearing a backpack and walking around... and getting old? I don't know. Just thought I would throw that in there. We watched "The Last Emperor" at night, which was awful. Terrible, horrible, dreadfully long movie. Uggggggh. But it was in preparation to see the Forbidden City on Wednesday, along with Tienanmen Square and Chairman Mao's tomb - all pretty exciting!

Day Five: Complete with the Hand Jive

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

We got started little late this morning, but saved money on a cab by taking the subway to T.S. Upon arrival, what do you think happened? Oh yes, we were "mobbed" by tourists for pictures - okay, so it was only a man and his wife, but still this small amount of "fame" is giving us a peek into celebrity, and I have to say, I kinda like it. ^^ Unfortunately, Mao's Tomb closed at noon and we got there slightly after, so that's on the agenda for tomorrow along with the Temple of Heaven (starting early at the South Gate to see the old people practicing their martial arts and such) and walking around some hutongs.

After walking around windy T.S. (ps - there are security check points everywhere, from entering the subway to going into T.S. to this, that and the other place... possibly more conveyor belt security checks than I've ever gone through in my entire life, yes, even after the Terror Levels were put in place - wow!) it was nice to find solace within the halls of the Forbidden City, though the cold was still biting. Ooh! I bought a Commie star flap cap, and it was only 30 yuan (or you could say "guay" like saying "bucks/cash" instead of "dollars")! Ah-nice! It kept me warm and made for some ridiculous photo ops. Also, it will make a nice addition to the hat/costume wall back Stateside.

I was surprised how long we were able to wander through the labyrinth of the F.C., a few hours for sure. Appendages were hurting and we had to stop and warm up inside galleries and gift shops a few times. After the F.C. we made our way back to the WFJ area, along the way out of the F.C. we were tagged by a couple of girls who seemed to be scamming us into a "friendship" and possibly tea party ditch (there are stories of Beijingers being extremely friendly towards tourists and promising to show them a good time around the city, starting with a tea house fun-time where they rack up the bill and slip out before the check comes, leaving the tourists high and dry), but we were wise to their tricks and left 'em in our dust.

We ate at a semi-shady, but semi-delicious restaurant; we only ate a little bit because there was a little food vendor strip we passed on the way there - ooh! We tried some sesame roll thing that was desserty, but it didn't get a second bite from me; fried milk (huh? it was a clearish thin rectangle block [before fried] that had a tofu-ish texture) covered in cream sauce and sugar; fried banana balls; dumplings; lamb - oh! those lamb sellers were the best! They sold testicles and the way they pitched in their enthusiastic, gravelly voices was supremely enjoyable and probably the only reason we bought a skewer... that and the fact that he invited us behind his stand!

Finally we met up with Whitney who took us to the acrobat show - the 180 tickets were sold out, but somehow she managed to get us 280 tx for 200!! Ah-nice, especially since we were in the sixth row! Wow. That performance! They ranged from 12ish year old girls to possibly early 40s, so I imagined. Insanely strong and flexible, balancing on backs, upside down while balancing bowls on their feet. Extreme gymnastics to the max. Again, the theatergoers brought snacks and talked and coughed and burped, but it was a good show. We were scared for the shaking muscles, but I was watching the whole time and no one screwed up once! The finale was 12 ladies on one bike!! Ahhh!!! I was so nervous!

(The order of the acts.)

After the show we decided to grab a drink at a sports bar. We walked in and there was a belly dancer by the door - how strange! The owner tried to give us "tips" about Beijing that we already knew and flex his insider muscles... it was amusing and only slightly annoying.

Man. Cab drivers in B-City never seem to know where they are going! The guy that drove us home tonight had to stop and ask directions four times!! We gave him the card with the address for Tony's apartment complex, but he still couldn't find it right away. This is the norm, too, it seems. I guess it's nice because we get to see more of the city... yeah, let's try to be optimistic about it. Also! Man, the architecture here! It's WONDERFUL!! It's not the same structures every block like in Korea, but the buildings look different!! Maybe that's because the city wasn't torn apart by a war 50+ years ago, but still... it's just nice.

Day Six: We Were Up Before Then

Thursday, December 31, 2009

We woke up before the sun. 5:40a to be precise, and we were out the door by 6a. Crazy, you say? I must agree, it was me who did the pushing on that, and the initial regrets, too - but oh! how worth it it was in the end!

(This is how we look when we think about how we feel at being "wide" awake at 6am. This park better be good!)

Shivering through the pre-dawn dark we made our way to the Bagou subway station and on to the Tian Tan Dong Men (Temple of Heaven East Gate) stop. It was still pretty dark when we arrived with hopes of seeing old folks practicing wushu (I think this is a general term for martial arts) or some tai chi (more internal focus and groups practicing, seems yoga-ish) or something (I can't tell the difference between the two) - tourist books boasted that this was a sight to be seen and experience. There were a few groups at first, and sprightly walkers sprinkled among the spruces (okay, so maybe they were firs... I'm not an arborist, and I like alliteration). It was so cold! There was frost on my scarf from my breath!!

(I don't mean to look so sad, it was just really cold and I was oh-so tired.)

It was really nice to be at the park early, to beat all the tourists. Although fingers and toes were frozen, and sickness from sleep deprivation was setting in, the serenity enjoyed in the early morning hours was well worth it. After touring the sites and shrines, we made our way out of the park where we encountered a square full of elderly activity. Old men and women were practicing tai chi (so I assume) to tapes on one side, and dancing cheek to cheek on the other. Then sunshine only made them seem younger as the steam rose from their dancing bodies.

"This is stuff life is made of." Little moments of happiness when the world is dancing around you.

There was one couple decked in red and black who danced with complete passion and grace; their movements were as delicate as if they were dancing on clouds, and as peaceful as if they were the only ones in the park. I loved them. Chen and Ming, but her friends call her Mimi, or so I imagine.

Then we chilled out at this coffee shop across the road from the park (we stuck like glue to the older gentleman who crossed the street in front of us; we figured he knew what he was doing, but it was still a little terrifying standing in the middle of the road as the [let's say] Northbound traffic zoomed by) for a bit - or rather, thawed out, before going back to Tienanmen Square to check out Mao's tomb. A little disappointing to say the least, as it was 15 yuan (cheap, but still, we heard it was free...) to check our bags and then we were rushed through the shuffling feet on carpet-silent body room, and the museum was closed. Oh man! A slight bust, but otherwise successful adventure. We did see a car accident though, a direct result of the crazy Beijing driving (I don't watch those Fast and Furious movies, but I think they need to have one take place on the roadways in Seoul and Beijing)... ok so it was only a fender-bender, but still!

(Before Mao's Tomb; so hopeful)

(After Mao's Tomb; not that great)

Afterward, we walked around some nearby hutongs and took some pictures by the Egg (National Grand Theatre of China).

(Watch out for the guys in safari hats and don't step on nails in lightning storms. Okay!? And don't drink.)

Through Archways and Doorways: The juxtaposition of the Ancient and Modern -- that is my Beijing experience in a nutshell (other pictures prove this... in terms of the old and new aspect).

It's weird to think most-to-all of Beijing used to be comprised of hutongs (literally translates to "water well" in a Mongolian dialect, meaning that the people built their compounds around wells, separating each compound by alleyways), but they are now few and far between and quickly disappearing with the modern high-rise coming into dominance. The hutong we walked through was to the west of T.S. and seemed really poor. I guess back in the day one family would share a compound, but a lot of these family homes were confiscated during the Chinese Revolution in the early 1900s-ish for being too aristocratic, now it seems they are shanty towns and slums. The hutongs are known for their red doors and tight alleys which are perfect for bicycle riding (which I also learned that China is close to beating the US for having the most cars on the road, makes sense because of population, but seems saddening because I had this image of bicycles galore in my mind's eye before I traveled, and while there still were a good many, it wasn't what I had hoped for).

We subwayed everywhere, or walked. It was quite the trip back to Tony's as we were both exhausted, but we managed to make it back in one piece and take a much deserved nap.

(After the early day adventures; beat!)

Oh. my. goodness! For dinner we went to an all you can eat/drink Japanese restaurant, and it still makes me sick to think about everything consumed. Continuous rounds and rounds of tasty food and drink were brought to us throughout the night, and we left as one of the last tables to waddle out the door. Ugh. Good times though, lots of laughs and resolutions talk and just living/loving life in general. We ended up going to this bar called "La Bamba" in the university area of Western Beijing to ring in the new year.

"HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY!" We turned to the clock. 4... 3... 2... HAPPY NEW YEAR!! Most people weren't even paying attention, but we cheered and gunbayed "to 2010!"

B and I stayed the latest, but only lasted 'til 2, it was hard to drink on a full belly. There was dancing with awkward suitors or awkward dancing with suitors, both happened. A good time, and an interesting way to ring in the new decade, I suppose.

I must say that squatties have NOT grown on me, at all. They are disgusting as I think Beijing is, too (babies have slit pants so their parents can hold them over trash cans or let them go in the park or whatever... ew!). I suppose it's making strides, but it's taking a while and I'm grossed out in the meantime. There was poo in one at the bar - no, no, no!!!!! NO!! And chunky vom in the sink - c'mon, people!! I know it was a bar, but a little more class. 21st century, let's be done going in holes in the developed world, and face it, China, you're developed, and have more pollution than the rest of the world combined, so cut those emissions down - NOW!!

2010 resolution: under promise, over deliver.