Day Six: We Were Up Before Then

Thursday, December 31, 2009

We woke up before the sun. 5:40a to be precise, and we were out the door by 6a. Crazy, you say? I must agree, it was me who did the pushing on that, and the initial regrets, too - but oh! how worth it it was in the end!

(This is how we look when we think about how we feel at being "wide" awake at 6am. This park better be good!)

Shivering through the pre-dawn dark we made our way to the Bagou subway station and on to the Tian Tan Dong Men (Temple of Heaven East Gate) stop. It was still pretty dark when we arrived with hopes of seeing old folks practicing wushu (I think this is a general term for martial arts) or some tai chi (more internal focus and groups practicing, seems yoga-ish) or something (I can't tell the difference between the two) - tourist books boasted that this was a sight to be seen and experience. There were a few groups at first, and sprightly walkers sprinkled among the spruces (okay, so maybe they were firs... I'm not an arborist, and I like alliteration). It was so cold! There was frost on my scarf from my breath!!

(I don't mean to look so sad, it was just really cold and I was oh-so tired.)

It was really nice to be at the park early, to beat all the tourists. Although fingers and toes were frozen, and sickness from sleep deprivation was setting in, the serenity enjoyed in the early morning hours was well worth it. After touring the sites and shrines, we made our way out of the park where we encountered a square full of elderly activity. Old men and women were practicing tai chi (so I assume) to tapes on one side, and dancing cheek to cheek on the other. Then sunshine only made them seem younger as the steam rose from their dancing bodies.

"This is stuff life is made of." Little moments of happiness when the world is dancing around you.

There was one couple decked in red and black who danced with complete passion and grace; their movements were as delicate as if they were dancing on clouds, and as peaceful as if they were the only ones in the park. I loved them. Chen and Ming, but her friends call her Mimi, or so I imagine.

Then we chilled out at this coffee shop across the road from the park (we stuck like glue to the older gentleman who crossed the street in front of us; we figured he knew what he was doing, but it was still a little terrifying standing in the middle of the road as the [let's say] Northbound traffic zoomed by) for a bit - or rather, thawed out, before going back to Tienanmen Square to check out Mao's tomb. A little disappointing to say the least, as it was 15 yuan (cheap, but still, we heard it was free...) to check our bags and then we were rushed through the shuffling feet on carpet-silent body room, and the museum was closed. Oh man! A slight bust, but otherwise successful adventure. We did see a car accident though, a direct result of the crazy Beijing driving (I don't watch those Fast and Furious movies, but I think they need to have one take place on the roadways in Seoul and Beijing)... ok so it was only a fender-bender, but still!

(Before Mao's Tomb; so hopeful)

(After Mao's Tomb; not that great)

Afterward, we walked around some nearby hutongs and took some pictures by the Egg (National Grand Theatre of China).

(Watch out for the guys in safari hats and don't step on nails in lightning storms. Okay!? And don't drink.)

Through Archways and Doorways: The juxtaposition of the Ancient and Modern -- that is my Beijing experience in a nutshell (other pictures prove this... in terms of the old and new aspect).

It's weird to think most-to-all of Beijing used to be comprised of hutongs (literally translates to "water well" in a Mongolian dialect, meaning that the people built their compounds around wells, separating each compound by alleyways), but they are now few and far between and quickly disappearing with the modern high-rise coming into dominance. The hutong we walked through was to the west of T.S. and seemed really poor. I guess back in the day one family would share a compound, but a lot of these family homes were confiscated during the Chinese Revolution in the early 1900s-ish for being too aristocratic, now it seems they are shanty towns and slums. The hutongs are known for their red doors and tight alleys which are perfect for bicycle riding (which I also learned that China is close to beating the US for having the most cars on the road, makes sense because of population, but seems saddening because I had this image of bicycles galore in my mind's eye before I traveled, and while there still were a good many, it wasn't what I had hoped for).

We subwayed everywhere, or walked. It was quite the trip back to Tony's as we were both exhausted, but we managed to make it back in one piece and take a much deserved nap.

(After the early day adventures; beat!)

Oh. my. goodness! For dinner we went to an all you can eat/drink Japanese restaurant, and it still makes me sick to think about everything consumed. Continuous rounds and rounds of tasty food and drink were brought to us throughout the night, and we left as one of the last tables to waddle out the door. Ugh. Good times though, lots of laughs and resolutions talk and just living/loving life in general. We ended up going to this bar called "La Bamba" in the university area of Western Beijing to ring in the new year.

"HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY!" We turned to the clock. 4... 3... 2... HAPPY NEW YEAR!! Most people weren't even paying attention, but we cheered and gunbayed "to 2010!"

B and I stayed the latest, but only lasted 'til 2, it was hard to drink on a full belly. There was dancing with awkward suitors or awkward dancing with suitors, both happened. A good time, and an interesting way to ring in the new decade, I suppose.

I must say that squatties have NOT grown on me, at all. They are disgusting as I think Beijing is, too (babies have slit pants so their parents can hold them over trash cans or let them go in the park or whatever... ew!). I suppose it's making strides, but it's taking a while and I'm grossed out in the meantime. There was poo in one at the bar - no, no, no!!!!! NO!! And chunky vom in the sink - c'mon, people!! I know it was a bar, but a little more class. 21st century, let's be done going in holes in the developed world, and face it, China, you're developed, and have more pollution than the rest of the world combined, so cut those emissions down - NOW!!

2010 resolution: under promise, over deliver.