Sunday, February 28, 2010

a-run-run-runnin'!

From January 31, 2010:

I ran 18 miles today, and while I was running, in addition to the smiles, "hello!"s and cheers I got on the mountain (steep hills?) trails there was one older lady - a grandmother, I suppose - with a young girl - her granddaughter, I imagine - who stopped me with a smile and questioned me about the trail ahead... in Korean. I had no idea what she was saying. She repeated herself, smiled bigger, and threw in hand gestures for good measure. I smiled in agreement, said "Hello. Thank you. Goodbye." I had no idea. Semi-satisfied, we each continued on our way.
      "You ran that whole long way? Incredible! Congratulations!"
      "I just saw a snake this big! That's why my granddaughter ran down the hill."
      "When I was your age, I swam from Korea to Japan and back. That's pretty far, huh?"
      "Today, my grandson caught a fish this big. This big!"
Who knows, she could have said any of those things. Luckily, I saw no snakes on my exit.

My last 20 mile training run this weekend, then tapering time, and the big marathon on March 21st!! #4 in the race to finish five before 25!!

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

"Have a Funny Time!"

I went skiing at Phoenix Park in the western province of Gangwon over the Lunar New Year holiday (February 13-15) with some friends through a travel group, Adventure Korea, and it was FANTASTICALLY fun!! I was a little anxious about what the skiing conditions would be like as the weather was starting to warm and rain the week prior to our departure, and one of my friends kept recounting the story when she was hit on a Canadian slope by a Korean man, stating that most-to-all Koreans ski above their level. Well, if that isn't a sweeping generalization, then I don't know what is. Then again, all Americans are loud and arrogant, right? Oy. Regardless, the weather turned out to be splendid - it snowed Saturday, and was pret-ty, pret-ty, pretty chilly on Sunday (perfect!); the skiiers, and 'boarders, too(!) were excellent on the slopes.
(actually a photo from Sunday, but I like it because the mountains look like they're draped in velvet.)

The mountain wasn't really that, but more of a cluster of small, steep-ish hills, which after not skiing once since February '07, I was completely okay with. Oh, but first, getting to the mountain was fun in itself. I met half of my friends outside our apartments at 5:50a - we barely made the 7:30a departure, but had time to spare because there were other people who were caught in the traffic we barely missed. Phew! We got to the mountain - again, I use this term loosely - around 11ish, rented our gear (I'm 5'8" = 173cm = 162cm skis...?) and I'm happy to say that they supplied snowsuits, too, as they made for amazing photos!
I felt like my friends' coach here! Racing team, go! Then, we hit the slopes 'round noon:thirty for some snowy good times. Like I said, Saturday was delightfully snow-filled, and I have to say that despite not skiing for two years, I think I did pretty well. There were a couple moments on ice patches on the steeper parts of the "Blues" that I started singing The Beatles to myself (I used to do that as a child when I went down slopes that I was under qualified for/terrified on - it was calming.) but my singing was drowned out by the K-pop and American rap music they had blasting out of the speakers. I wised up on Sunday and popped in the right ear of my iPod. Both days were great all around. Saturday with the snow and soaking up the atmosphere, and Sunday was even better because I hit up all the slopes - Double Blacks included!! (But don't be fooled, the slopes went like this: Green = bunny hill. Blue = Green. Black = Green/Blue. Double Black = Blue-ish. Me = Pro.) 
After skiing times on Sunday we headed over to Blue Canyon Water Park, which was just a short walk from our hostel (we stayed right at the bottom of the slopes; it was so convenient) in the resort area. Sunday night was probably my favorite part of the trip: a1) because of the water park with its outdoor hot tubs(!) and b2) the night skiing!!
Also, the 'boarders at the park were awesomely geared up, but I didn't expect anything less, as all the Koreans I've known are also some of the most fashionable people I know! They make me happy. And(!) not only did they ride the slopes in style, they actually rode the slopes!! There wasn't any sitting around and lollygagging for them, they just rode, rode, rode! That was probably the most amazing thing to me, but that's another thing, Koreans don't seem to take their hobbies lightly, when they pick something up, they quickly become the best at it - so I've seen, and I admire their dedication and determination.
The night skiing was prime because the slopes were pretty bare (the place kept running until 2 or 3a!! we were out from 10-11:30p after the water park), it was calm with the slope music off, and the fresh night mountain air was just pure refreshing! 
All in all it was a great trip! We headed back to Seoul a little before 1pm on Monday, making for a most excellent three-day weekend adventure with friends (old and new)!!


PS - the title of this post comes from when one of the lift operators told me and my friends to yes, "have a funny time!" and we did; there was a lot of laughing this weekend.

Oy vey.

Sorry I haven't written in a while; January's been a little crazy thus far. I'm now teaching straight through M, W, F - a two-hour speaking class was added into my schedule - which isn't really so bad A1.) because it will be over in February and B2.) sort of helps the day go by faster, though it is frustrating not having any sort of curriculum outside of "just speak and have them present." Ok... so there's been speaking about family, sports, the Olympics, the world (this last week will hold.... global warming, things to do on vacation, and professions), but I can usually only keep the two boys' (M, W just them - they're 8 Western age; F's we're joined by Esther, 6 Western age - she's good, but shy) attention for about 15-20 before we have to bust out the crayons and draw a picture about what we just talked about, then there's a lot of playroom time followed by round after round, after round of 'hangman' - money well-spent; I'm a glorified babysitter. The boys are best friends; David is the ideal student: polite, funny, smart and he pays attention, whereas Jake is loud and easily distracted. It's actually a good balance for the classroom time. "Jake, sit down." "Jake, don't touch that." "Jake." all the while having a conversation with David. I did find something that Jake liked to do, though. We made-up a story together with these mammal cards I had, it was about a bear living in a zoo and he ate a bomb for breakfast. Jake must've liked it because he retold the story for another class later in the week. Oh, Jake. That's not what I signed in to talk about though...

I thought I had it all figured out... in that I was figuring myself out. I've been here almost five months now, and I'm really enjoying myself; my job is decent, my kids are incredible, I couldn't ask for better co-worker/friends, and while there are little things the directors pull that really irk me, things could be a lot worse. I love that I'm finally overseas, and I'm not just traveling, but I'm working/living here!! China was dirty, yeah, but I was able to experience it for myself rather than taking someone's word for it. And for the tentative future travel plans: Russia for summer vacation, then Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, and India after my contract is finished (I know, I know, but I'm crossing my fingers that I'll find some way to work it out without leaving me in deeper debt than when I left on that first jet plane overseas), and throw Japan in there somewhere, too - I've read far too much Murakami and dreamt of that far Eastern Asian island far too many times to not go there while I'm here. And yeah, then there's the Philippines and Malaysia, and Singapore, and everywhere else... maybe all of those places would be possible to visit if I did two years, but I'm not sure I want to do another year  - in fact, I [think] I'm positive I don't. Life is good over here, although sometimes I worry that it's too easy, but then again, that's another reason I came - in addition to the travel - to save money and pay off loans above the monthly minimum. At the same time, it's not easy at all; it's not easy that I can't speak the language as well as I want to (my own fault); that no matter how long I decide to stay here I'll always be viewed as a foreigner; that I can't breathe without feeling like I'm sucking on a bus's exhaust pipe. I'm not writing as much as I should be, especially creatively, and I miss volunteering, and having time to do my own thing during the week... and I feel like I'm complaining now, but I'm not... I just miss things, but mostly I miss people. Outside of missing people (and I do get to see/talk to most people with the help of Skype) I am really happy here, every day. I'm happy that I took advantage of this opportunity to challenge myself and see the world and have a job that means something to me, something that I'm able to see actual results in - my kids are soooo great, I cannot express in words, and it's really exciting to see them trying out their phonics and actually reading(!), and starting to speak in words that are closer to sentence form. And! I just found out that I get to move up with my kids come the semester change in March!! Also, I'm apparently getting another girl student this coming Monday, and maybe Arthur will come back (Christmas Eve was his last day because his mother wasn't happy with the curriculum, and I don't blame her because it is crap!), and there might be two more girls joining in March... I'm skeptical about all of these things because Mrs. C (the "co-director") said them to me, and I'm pretty sure she's told me about new kids before and I haven't received any, and I feel like a big part of Arthur leaving was Mrs. C's bad attitude, but he's a great kid, and I'd love to have him back in class, so I'm going to try to remain as optimistic as possible. Where did I go...?

Basically, I hope this experience will equally afford me with an opportunity to get a job (with full benefits) closer to what I'd like to do (writing in any capacity) when I get back home, as much as it has afforded me the chance to see a part of the world, and myself, that I never thought I would. That's the jist of my ramblings right there.

And pretty much unrelated, but in the category of "oy vey!" I was trying to free up space on my hard drive and I deleted my pretty Fall-time Kyung Hee University pictures that I hadn't shared yet, I thought they'd be saved on my external hard drive, but no go... and I'm bummed that I can't have pictures through the seasons (they were really! really good, too *sad face*)... man!

Ending on a good note: we're having "graduation" in the end of February and we have to have the kids sing and perform for the parents. Luckily, my kids only have to sing three songs: one with the whole school (Beatles' "Yellow Submarine"), one with the other 5 and 6 y.o. classes (Beatles' "Hello, Goodbye") and one for our class (KC & the Sunshine's "Boogie Shoes"); whereas the older kids have to sing three songs and perform plays and/or memorize speeches. Oh, and we (the teachers) have to wear ball gowns and perform with the kids, too, so that will be fun, and awkward, and ridiculous.

Speaking of song/dancey time, here's a video of my kids practicing "Santa Claus is Coming to Town" it was one of the first practices of many, so don't judge too harshly, though they seemed to only get louder and not so much better as the practicing went on. (I like this one because Roy - the tall one - keeps trying to put his hands in his pockets, Olivia keeps lifting up her dress, and Arthur - in stripes - is picking his nose. Also, I was talking to my brother, Alex, about their weird move for "town" and he was saying how maybe they're confused that "town" is "chimney" and how it's going to open up a can of worms when they're older - the school taped the performance for parents.) It's a facebook video, so all you have to do is be signed in to have the clip below work for you.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Day One: Now Wasn't that Fun!?

Ch-Ch-CHINA stories here we gooooooooooooooooooo!!!

From the events of Saturday, December 26, 2009. I should start out by saying that Christmas lasted a bit longer than I intended it to... there was a nice family-style dinner with friends, followed by meeting with other friends at NOW bar.

Plan: Briana and I were to meet up 'round 8:40a to trek to the airport bus that left at 9a. I woke up with a start from a Briana text reading "u coming?" at 8:46a. OH NO!! I got up, phone to my ear and started flying around my apartment in a daze, throwing last minute items into my suitcase... exactly like the McCallisters in their morning rushings after their external power was cut off (my internal seemed to have failed me), "Briana!" I cried into the phone, "I just woke up. Go to the bus, I'll meet you there. We will make this bus! We will." She agreed, but their was skepticism in her voice. I don't blame her; we missed the bus, but we were able to get a cab for 80,000 won - funnily enough the first guy quoted 150,000, then this second guy said 120,000 we said, "No. 100,000" and walked away, but then he called out, "80,000!" Alright, I like this.

The flight was less than enjoyable, A1. because I wasn't feeling the greatest. B2. apparently China Southern Airlines manufactured their planes in 1978 and haven't updated since. It was a bumpy and loud ride to say the least. I went between sleeping and sweating and vomiting - I felt just like a little baby, but I didn't cry. Rough.

Oh! And in my sickly haze, I checked that I had a cough on the medical card, and when we de-planed, I was semi-detained. I had to go get my temperature checked and wear a mask, but that was sort of fun and I felt like I fit right in. I was total money cause I only had a common cold, but the guy didn't seem to appreciate his time being taken. What else were you going to do, guy? Get over it.

IN CHINA!!! Beijing to be exact! Briana and I met Tony (the dude we stayed with and Briana's friend) and his lady, Xie Yichen (pronounced "E Chen") at the airport and hopped into a cab - I sat in the front and dry-heaved with my head out the window a couple times. Ugh. WELCOME TO CHINA!! I napped for a bit because I still felt sick, and missed a lunch snack at a poetic menu restaurant ("Hoodwinks the type to roast Yang Bang" for chicken legs).

We had dinner at some pizza place (I know, but it was a group thing, and there was a whole week to indulge on the country's cuisine) by a lake that started with an H - maybe Haitang, or maybe I just made that up, I don't care enough to check. Afterward we went to a reggae bar nearby. It was so crazy getting there!! We were walking down the lane, minding our own business, and we see a line of bars ahead of us, so we continue on our way and we are approached by excited men in long coats and big hats, "You like drinks? Music? Come. Come!" we keep walking, it happens again. In front of every bar/club there was at least one guy to round up people and get 'em inside. They got so close to your face. If there wasn't someone outside, they were inside and if you saw them seeing you approaching, then they'd run out and say, "Hey! Hey! Inside. Here." and I couldn't help but laugh. Personal space doesn't seem to exist in China, though in the experience of the overall trip, they don't bump into you like the Koreans do (shoving you this way and that without apology)... strange. We ended up at 31 Bar (reggae-ish) because they didn't rush out at us and it sounded good inside. Oh yeah, live music inside every place we walked by. Wow! Our music men were great, they played flamenco and a variety of other sounds; the lead singer sounded like Colin Hayes - very enjoyable.

Oh. And also, there were horror stories told about muggings and organ stealing. Apparently Briana heard a story about an old couple going to get a taxi at the Summer Palace, or some place, and the old woman got inside first, then the taxi just sped off and the husband was left to worry and panic... days later, her organs were sold on the black market... or something. I can't say I believed this story, but believe you me I didn't doubt it and I thought about it every time we hopped into a cab. Yikes.

So, that's day one.

Thursday, January 7, 2010

Day Two: Have I got the Massage for You!

Sunday, December 27, 2009

What a day! Summer Palace... in the winter. The wind was a little harsh. We wandered around for four hours, or so, checking out all the temples, pavilions, galleries and houses that were destroyed by the Anglo-French forces in 1860 and rebuilt by the Empress Dowager Cixi in 1886ish. She was a powerful lady, and even put her son, the emperor somebody or other under house arrest after the Reform Movement... I'm oh-so knowledgeable about Chinese history, wouldn't you agree? No. Yeah... We saw a lot of bronzework from the16th-11th centuries BC, though and that was pretty neat...
DRAGONS GALORE!! Did man and dinosaurs live together at one point maybe? What's the deal? Because a lot (read: all) ancient civilizations seem to have a fascination with dragons and if they couldn't interact with each other because they didn't know they were there how'd they all know about dragons? I was going to go ahead and say that dragons are real, but then, there isn't any fossil evidence... maybe that's because dragon bones turn to dust when they die. Yep. I'm going with that one.
The views were pretty spectacular, too. My camera couldn't really capture the essence of the ancient mixed with the modern, but hopefully my memory can preserve those images for some time to come.

I think my favorite thing about the Summer Palace was walking across the empty (iced) lake, even with all the dust that flew into our eyes, it was good. We even got to do a seated sled thing across it. Good times.
After all that hiking and trekking we got in a cab in search of a Beijing duck dinner, after two failed attempts in our "Wild Duck Hunt" we settled for a hot pot dinner - which was a tasty treat, indeed. Like Japanese shabu shabu, but two different soup types separated in one hot pot.

Then, since in my rush of last minute travel items I forgot my PJs, we went to Lotus (China's answer to Wal-Mart, though I think someone said they have those there...) and I picked up some long underwear in addition to fruit and gum - all for the low-low price of $15 - HOLY MOLY ME OH MY!!!

Oh, man. Here comes the strangest/sweetest part. Briana and I went to get massages - 60 yuan for 45 minutes (not shabby; a little under $10): 30 minutes of a pinching massage and 15 minutes of those hot-suction-y cups... the cupping one sounded like fun until my lady had me watch Briana get it done. (Oh yeah, this "massage parlor" was in a back room with three small beds, and our room could see into the next room over where a few older Chinese ladies were playing a dominoes game of sorts.) The glass cups are lit on fire and then suctioned to the skin, a blanket is placed over the cups and you're left for 10-15 minutes. While I was getting it done I imagined the cups were sucking all my skin up in 'em and that cups would explode and glass would fly everywhere, or just stick into me because the blanket was covering them from showering the whole room - YIKES! This didn't happen. Briana was convinced that she'd catch fire. That didn't happen. Thank goodness on both of those accounts. Though bad news, we both walked out of there looking like battered housewives; there were bruise/hickey-like marks all over our backs, and 4 on the front for the collarbones and shoulders. Mine were a lot darker than Briana's, and Yie Xichen said it meant that I had a lot of toxins in my body and that I really needed it... I think it's all from my Christmas celebrations, perhaps, but I also think that's a lie and they just left them on me too long.

Then we went back to Tony's to figure out the game plan for Day Three, and ended up playing a long and hilarious game of Chinese Monopoly ("Uncle Wang's") on a paper board. One of the "? Chance" cards I happened upon was a Strength Challenge where I had to do 5 push-ups for 200 yuan or 10 for 500. I went for the big bucks. Oh, China, you're crazy.

Day Three: No More Haggling for Me!

Monday, December 28, 2009

WE ATE SCORPIONS!! And Beijing Duck, but scorpions!! How crazy is that? Pretty crazy, I'd say. They were BBQ-y and crunchy, like potato chips... shaped like scorpions. Not necessarily the highlight, but definitely pretty high up there.

First things first. We met Tony for an Indian food lunch experience - oh so tasty! Then we had to go to the police station and register because we stayed in China for more than seven days. Tony had to come and show the policio his resident card and a note from the school stating that he was employed there, and say that he was the resident we were staying with. Apparently hostels and hotels do this, too, you just may not know about it. China's always watching.

Afterward, Briana and I cabbed (solo!) over to Olympic Park, and while we encountered a few problems with the ticketing, we made it into the stadium and it looked... well, like a stadium. We walked around it, went to the top, then started for the side where it looked like you could enter into the Winter Wonderland thing they had going on in the field - they were blowing snow, there was sledding and happiness... we wanted in. On the way, we found the IOC Chairmen Wax Museum which was a bit strange, but heated inside so we lingered. The Winter Wonderland was an extra charge so we decided against it and made our way out of the stadium.

I was taking pictures of Briana jumping in front of the entrance when a lady photographer grabbed my arm and motioned that she wanted a picture. I thought she wanted me to take a picture of her and the four men she was with, so I said "okay," but then she grabbed one of the men and stood him next to me. I called B over and we flanked the man for the photo. Then another one wanted a photo, so I had the woman take one with my camera, too. I guess Beijing gets a lot of tourists from Southern China (especially in the winter to see the snow) and smaller villages that might not get so much Western traffic.
After that we headed to Wangfuijing Street, a shopping district, via the subway! Which was oh so clean and futuristic in a spaceship-like way; an open tube that sparkled and shined and had televisions announcing stops and showed the world's ugliest animals every few stops or so. It was pretty fast, too. WFJ is where we had the scorp, too. We walked around the "authentic" Chinese market area, did some haggling, got swindled into buying candy without even realizing what was happening - so fast it happened! Good saleslady! It was only $2 split between me and B, so we figured whatever and that we'd give it to our kids.

Oh man! Then I was looking at some red bracelets and this lady selling spoke some English and was "helping" me haggle, by holding my arm - very tightly, kind of making it impossible to walk away. It was hard to look at the merch when she was all up in my face; she would say a high price and I would say "no" and start to walk away only to have her pull me back and ask me to name a price, "What do you call?" then she would repeat the price I gave and laugh in my face, I'm talking right up close in my face (Western space/personal bubble limits don't seem to exist here). Eventually I talked her down to 50 yuan, but I only had 20s so I gave her 60 and when I asked for change, she started to go for it, but then gave me a smaller bracelet for for 10. Oh geeze. Oh. And another bracelet seller pleaded with me when I told her I needed to think about the price, "No thinking! Buy now!" The marketplace was definitely a heart-racing experience in dodging the arms that would reach out to grab you and haggling for your life. The salespeople are very persistent in these markets. Oh, and the arm-holding face-laughing lady told me that a sign on their booth said, "good prices for foreigners" yeah right, like I'm going to believe that a sign written in Chinese is to welcome foreigners...

(Waving starfish. You want? Or maybe some petrified lizards?)
(AHHHH!!! These were not the scorpions we ate!!)
(We had the babies. "Why am I doing this again?")
(For my children's children.)

It was nearing 6, so B and I headed to Beijing's largest bookstore to wait for Tony and Xie Yichen and then we went and ate some duck. Oy. But on the way is when we had the scorpion appetizers. They sold starfish, sea horses, silk worms (maybe), cockroaches (I think), BIG scorpions, and grasshoppers among other things that you could fry and try. Oh, China. And that duck. Man, we ate a lot of duck... we got two. I ate half a duck and ate its brains, and had heart in a dumpling. It kind of grosses me out a little to think about it now, probably because we were so full after. Oy. And I guess the duck skin is the best part, so they say. It was the first part of the duck served and we each popped a piece in our mouth and bit down with a crunch and a splash of hot water (really grease, though) gushed into our cheeks. Ummm... yum? The duck was pretty tasty, though I wish we woulda stopped after one; we wrapped the duck meat in thin pancakes with BBQ-ish sauce and scallions, then washed it all down with some jasmine tea.

A pretty good day, if I do say. PS - this song kept running through my head throughout the trip! Eeks! 

Day Four: We Bought Tickets to see the World's Biggest Gift Store...

Tuesday, December 29, 2009


Yep. We went to the world's largest aquatic gift shop today! Otherwise known as the Beijing Aquarium. The Lonely Planet boasted it as being the largest mainland aquarium with seven awesome sections including SHARKS and whales, too. Oooh! Briana and I were pretty excited to say the least. And then it turned out to be a bit of a disappointment as the Amazon section seemed to have about five species of fish, on repeat. And coy fish... really? Coy in the Amazon?
Oh, and as for those seven sections... the shark reef was under construction (I almost cried, but I guess I'll have to save the next sharks I see for the ones I swim with in Busan!!) and the whale one was, too... or maybe there were no whales to begin with. The coral reef section was almost cool, and that was only because there was an escalator that served as a tunnel under the water and a big ole turtle and a manta ray swam over me. Then there was a sturgeon hall that I don't even remember having fish in it... but maybe they were there... I was a little blinded by my rage at that point. Oh, but the gift shops. Yes, there were gift shops in tacky seaside decor every which way you looked... (no joke, hence B and I dubbing the "aquarium" the world's largest gift shop) just in case you wanted something in one room, but didn't make up your mind until you got in another room - they just wanted to give you options, I guess. They also sold fried fish at the food stands, which I didn't think was so friendly... but maybe that's what all the Coy in the "Amazon" was for. Makes sense.

After waiting around as long as we could - we waited for an hour or so to watch a seal/dolphin show which was a seal/dolphin show, again, the Lonely Planet lied to us and said it was along the lines of a Sea World performance... there was no Shamu, though a swimmer did stand on dolphins and that was pretty neat.

After being disappointed at the aquarium, we thought things couldn't be much worse in the zoo (the admission covered the cost of both) and we saw elephants, hippos, rhino bums, giraffes, adorable little golden monkeys (who were outside and had to be so cold, but maybe they're used to it?) and PANDAS!!
(A little blurry, but those are a couple of pandas for you.)

While we were looking at the pandas there was a family of women who grabbed a giggling Briana into a picture and took me alongside. Two for two in the completing strangers family photo albums (I don't count the days we were with Xie Yichen and Tony because that made us seem more like locals...)!!

After the zoo we had a subway adventure - we were pushed into the train car by people that worked in the subway!! They didn't have plush pushers on their arms like I imagined, but it was still fun and gave me a bit of a start. We were to meet Tony's co-teacher's friend, Whitney, a Beijing tour guide, who got us tickets to see a Kung Fu show at night. It didn't take us very long to get to where we needed to be and we had an hour to kill, so we walked around in search of food, but we only found a KFC. Somehow or another we ended up at this Pearl Market... I think it's cause we thought there might be food inside, no go, just more "designer" duds. There was more haggling amidst arm-grabbing and calculator prices. "Hey lady. Lady you like Coach bag? Louis Vuitton? We have designer bag special for you." We ended up getting pizza from a bakery.

The KF show was pretty spectacular and re-lit my love for theater that has seemed to dwindle in its dormant stage. The live action and sets and storytelling awakened curiosity and desire, and hopefully not only for the moment. Simple sets, but the costumes were bright and brilliant. There were many actors playing Chun Yi (the Kung Fu master the story was about) each showcasing one of C.Y.'s abilities. Some acrobatics and the choreography was almost flawless, very pleasing to the eye.

A lotus flower always blooms
Sunshine becomes a rainbow
A split second lasts for eternity

Or something along those lines was the song sung throughout the show.

My back really started to hurt today (like behind the shoulder blades hurt), and I blame it on the cupping, but maybe it was a combination of that, wearing a backpack and walking around... and getting old? I don't know. Just thought I would throw that in there. We watched "The Last Emperor" at night, which was awful. Terrible, horrible, dreadfully long movie. Uggggggh. But it was in preparation to see the Forbidden City on Wednesday, along with Tienanmen Square and Chairman Mao's tomb - all pretty exciting!