It ended, and now so it shall begin.

Korea and me are through. It wasn't him, it was me. I needed to go. The good-byes were heartbreaking, but in the end I think I'll be a better person for the things we experienced together. Oh, and The ROK still has my things, so I'll be back for a quickie in November after I give myself a good two months of traveling and spending time getting to know who I am before going back to get everything. After that, I'm out of there! For good? I don't know, I may go back to visit; I can't promise anything right now.

I am looking forward to spending quality time with myself. Actually, I'm a bit terrified; I go back and forth between panic and excitement - it's a very thin line.

Currently, I am in Banaue, Philippines, and I just spent the day roaming around the incredibly wonderful Ifuago Rice Terraces with a tour group comprised of an older French couple and an older Dutch couple (both early/mid-thirties)... talk about fifth wheel! Or maybe they thought I was an awesome, adventurous twenty-something... that, or incredibly awkward. Who knows?

I took an 8-ish hour "luxury" bus ride to get here (read: the coldest mode of transportation ever encountered - next time I'll think to stuff the vents with tissues!) and when we got off, me in my layers of everything warm I packed (not much, because who packs many warms things to a SE Asia/India adventure? Not this lady, that's for sure) our tour guide said to us, "The Philippines is hot, but the bus is winter." Too true!

It was a bumpy and windy ride through the mountains and we arrived in Banaue shortly after sunrise, groggy and sleepy-eyed. Coffee revived, along with oatmeal(!!!!) and bananas from the restaurant in my hotel, "Greenview" (single, cheap room is only 240/night... so like a little less than $6). Outside my room is a balcony overlooking a rushing river and the hill town of Banaue just below and intermingled amongst the terraces. "What a good way to start your day!" called a rooster from far away. I agree King of the Farm and Cock of the Ring. The terraces are more tan than brown (as it's harvest time) and compliment the rusting green tin roofs of the town quite nicely. Again, everyone here is fantastically lovely and reaffirming my ability of solo travel with the help of others.

Yesterday, Liz and I were in Manila, roaming the chaotic, dirty and noisy streets. We went to a super mall, of sorts (Greenbelt Mall) and I bought a travel satchel (only $4 - HOT DOG!!!) and we browsed the latest Filipino fashions. Then I stopped in an electronic store to buy a new camera because sand got in my old one when we were on the beach in Boracay and the lens won't function properly. Annnnyway, it was a good deal and it's underwater ready, but I'm not completely thrilled with it, it was mostly out of necessity, and I'm hoping that I'll be able to get my Nikon fixed (not likely, but... okay! Not the purpose of the post). It was really hard to say good-bye, mostly because she was really fun to travel with and I'm going to miss her, but also because I was/am pretty scared about doing all of this on my own, but I will make it, and it will be one of the best decisions of my life (thus far).

Prior to Manila, Lizzikins and I were in Taal in Batangas (southern area of Northern Luzon) and we went horseback riding up to Taal Volcano, which was awesome! Unfortunately, as we arrived on the island as the sun was setting we weren't able to go all the way up to the top, but what we saw was nice and foresty. So foresty in fact that when Michelle (my white horse! Like Princess Buttercup I was!) stumbled along the edge of the path I was assaulted by a number of branches and leaves. My horse guide, Felix (whose name I first thought was "Balex" - it's hard for me to understand this accent), kept tsk-ing Michelle and whipping her with the rope he was using as a guide and slapping her haunches. I wanted to say something, but didn't feel like it was my place, especially since I haven't ridden a horse since I was 12 and even then I've only been once. It was kind of creepy as the darkness started swallowing up the sky, and the shadows and my mind started to play tricks on my eyes as there were plants that looked like crouching island men that took me a few times to blink away. I mooed at one of the saggy-skinned white island cows and it started running after us and tried to cut us off at the path. Blocked by the bushes! They didn't moo but more like belched. It was strange. We took a homemade boat to and from Taal Volcano on Taal Lake, docked from San Nicolas. I think it was "Cap-i-tan" Joelle's boat, but again, I'm not sure on that name. We waited with the locals while the crew went to fetch fuel. It was really beautiful. (The whole trip, with transportation included from Mark and Tony [toothless, but oh-so jolly older man], cost 5,500 pesos for the two of us, or about $60 each - yikes! But at the same time it included a lot, and I didn't feel so bad about paying because it was local and you dealt with the people you paid directly.)

I liked the whole area of Taal. It was very quaint, and you could really get the feel for the Spanish influence in the architecture. We stayed at Casa Punzalan, which was wow! Only 300 pesos/each a night. The place was totally haunted, in a good way. There were no problems, but the way the place creaked and groaned... Liz and I felt it, but we're also very superstitious ladies. I did slip down the stairs on the way out in the morning though, and slid all the way from the top to the bottom on my bum. Thank goodness I had that massive backpack on, otherwise I would've tumbled. Sir Dingo (or Duingo... again, the pronunciation of the names and me isn't so good! Called "Sir" because he used to be a university professor, now a retired town volunteer to preserve) the innkeeper told us about the spirits and Taal and the surrounding areas; I enjoy a good history lesson.

We also walked around inside Taal Basilica, which is the largest Catholic Church in all of Asia, and by far the most awe-inspiring church I've ever stepped foot in. I think I needed a little bit of spiritually in my life at that time, given the fear I was feeling setting on my own later in the day. The sanctuary really provided me with the peace and comfort that I needed.

Tonight I stay in Banaue, and then tomorrow I head back to Manila via jeepneys and bus and hopefully make my plane in time! I think I will. Fingers crossed out there, people.